Tolin's 2024 World Cruise blog posts, Day 67 Mar 16, 2024, Singapore, Singapore; Peranakan Culture

 

The history of Singapore’s Peranakan culture goes as far back as the 15th century, when Chinese immigrants were settling in Malaya (now Peninsular Malaysia and Singapore) in increasing numbers. Today, the Straits-born Chinese, also known as Peranakan Chinese, are the descendants of those immigrants. Historically, they were often traders and embraced culture from both the local Malaysian culture as well as the colonial British.

The first wave of Chinese immigrants to Malaya and Indonesia arrived in the 10th century, however, the practice became much more common in the 15th century, when trade embargoes were lifted and further exacerbated by China’s failing economy. At the outset, it was common for Chinese men to take on Batak and Balinese slave wives. After the original settlements, the descended Peranakans moved in greater numbers between different countries in the region, maintaining separate colonies from the locals.

Traditional Peranakan Pottery | © Jpatokal/WikiCommons

Many aspects of Peranakan culture can still be found in Singapore and Malaysia, such as the traditional food and architecture. The traditional Peranakan food is referred to as nonya food, meaning women. The flavors of Peranakan cuisine take inspiration from Malay and Indonesia, however, one of the biggest differences is that Peranakan dishes often involve pork, such as babi pongteh, a dish of braised pork with salted bean paste. One of the most popular Peranakan dishes is beef rendang, where beef is stewed in coconut milk and spices.

Peranakan shophouses can be found all over Singapore. Due to their history of acting as traders for the Chinese and colonial populations in Singapore, they were a fairly wealthy population and displayed this wealth using the facade of their homes. Visit Emerald Hill or Joo Chiat and you will see examples of the colorful and ornate Peranakan homes in Singapore.

More info:  https://theculturetrip.com/asia/singapore/articles/a-brief-history-of-singapores-peranakan-culture

The Peranakans are an ethnic group defined by their genealogical descent from the first waves of Southern Chinese settlers to maritime Southeast Asia, known as Nanyang, namely the British Colonial ruled ports in the Malay Peninsula and the Indonesian Archipelago, as well as Singapore. Peranakan culture, especially in the dormant Peranakan centers of Malacca, Singapore, Penang, Phuket and Tangerang, is characterized by its unique hybridization of ancient Chinese culture with the local cultures of the Nusantara region, the result of a centuries-long history of  transculturation and interracial marriage.

Immigrants from the southern provinces of China arrived in significant numbers in the region between the 14th and 17th centuries, taking abode in the Malay Peninsula (where their descendants in Malacca, Singapore and Penang are referred to as Baba–Nyonya); the Indonesian Archipelago (where their descendants are referred to as Kiau–Seng); and Southern Thailand, primarily in Phuket, Trang, Phang Nga, Takua Pa and Ranong. Intermarriage between these Chinese settlers and their Malay, Thai, Javanese or other predecessors in the region contributed to the emergence of a distinctive hybrid culture and ostensible phenotypic differences.

The Peranakans are considered a multiracial community, with the caveat that individual family histories vary widely and likewise self-identification with multiracialism as opposed to Chineseness varies widely. The Malay/Indonesian phrase "orang Cina bukan Cina" ("a not-Chinese Chinese person") encapsulates the complex relationship between Peranakan identity and Chinese identity. The particularities of genealogy and the unique syncretic culture are the main features that distinguish the Peranakan from descendants of later waves of Chinese immigrants to the region.

More info, Google:  Peranakan Chinese and open wikipedia website

Colorful neighborhoods

Ceramic tiles from the Netherlands

Front "yards"

Public Housing

Second floor Peranakan living/dining room

More Netherland tile

On our bus ride back to cruise ship

Fort Canning Park is built on top of a 160-foot high hill and was home to some of the most historically significant buildings in the country. 

The park witnessed Singapore as a British colony and saw its rise as a thriving nation. The hill where Fort Canning stood was there when the country was ruled by ancient Malay kings. 

During the time of the Malays, the hill of Fort Canning used to be a place where the craftsmen for the royal family plied their trade. You can still see evidence of this in the Artisan’s Garden. 

These picture frames are teaching materials for art students

The Malay way of life is still evident in some of the edifices within the park. One structure that I absolutely love is the Pancur Larangan which is still intact up to this day. 

According to the info board posted in the park, the Pancur Larangan is where the ancient ladies of the Malay king used to take a bath. This open spring with beautiful carvings was reserved for the ladies of the court alone and not for the commoners.  

After the Malays, the hill was claimed by the British colonial officer, Sir Stamford Raffles. The governor chose this land to build his residence in 1822 and called it Government Hill or Singapore Hill. 

Raffles ordered Singapore’s first botanic garden to be built right on the hill. His purpose for establishing the garden is to stimulate farming in the region and encourage the citizens of the country to invest in agriculture. 

Several early European explorers experimented with spice growing

Raffles’ house was demolished in 1859 due to security concerns and the British Empire constructed a fort in its place. After the reconstruction, the British Empire changed the name of the hill to Fort Canning in 1861. 

It was named after the first Viceroy of India and Governor-general, Viscount Charles John Canning. The fortress was later used by the Japanese and British armies until they handed it over to the Singaporean Armed Forces (SAF) in 1963.

SAF vacated the hill in 1972 and it was turned into a public park called the Central Park. After another renaming in 1981, the hill became known as the Fort Canning Park. 

A significant number of the modern Peranakan community have embraced Christianity, most notably in Indonesia.

In 2019, a new branch of Singapore-specific Peranakan intermarriages were found to exist within the early Roman Catholic Church starting from 1834. This early church was set up by French missionaries (Mission Enstrangeres de Paris Order) in 1832 on Bras Basah Road, on the grounds of the present day Singapore Art Museum. Approximately 26 intermarriages between mainly China-born Teochew men and Melaka Serani, Malay, Peranakan Chinese and Indian women, took place under the auspices of this church, between 1834 and the early 1870s. Most, if not all descendants, identify as Teochew Peranakans today.

In Singapore, the Kampong Kapor Methodist Church, founded in 1894 by an Australian missionary, Sophia Blackmore, is considered one of the first Peranakan churches. During its establishment, Sunday service were conducted in Baba Malay language, and it is still one of the languages being used in their services.

Despite living in Muslim majority countries such as Indonesia and Malaysia, converting to Christianity allows Peranakans to continue eating pork which is a key part of the Peranakan diet.. Moreover, Peranakans were traditionally English educated at missionary schools, notably in Penang.

Tomorrow will be a laundry/catch up day for us; we sail toward Kuala Lumpur at 3 PM tomorrow.