Monday, November 25, 2019, End of the World Train, Ushuaia
USHUAIA, ARGENTINA
Often referred to as the end of the earth, Ushuaia is the
southernmost city in the world and the closest population center to the South
Pole. Its splendid setting, tucked
between the Beagle Channel and the southernmost slopes of the Andes, lends it
an outpost atmosphere, as do the Antarctic explorers readying for the
expeditions that depart from here.
Ushuaia is the capital of and gateway to the celebrated Tierra del
Fuego, the “land of Fire,” named by Spaniards upon seeing the constant flames
burned by the indigenous Yamana to keep warm.
This largely unspoiled region comprises the large island of Tierra del
Fuego and countless Chilean and Argentinean islands. Andean peaks, vast plains blanketed with
green forests and pristine lakes, mammoth glaciers, and a cacophony of birds
make this one of the world’s most breathing destinations.
In 1896 the prison received its first inmates, mainly re-offenders and dangerous prisoners transferred from Buenos Aires, but also some political prisoners. A separate military prison opened in 1903 at the nearby Puerto Golondrina. The two prisons merged in 1910, and that combined complex still stands today. Thus, during the first half of the 20th century, the city centered around the prison built by the Argentine government to increase the Argentine population and to ensure Argentine sovereignty over Tierra del Fuego. The prison was intended for repeat offenders and serious criminals, following the example of the British in Tasmania and the French in Devil's Island. Escape from Tierra del Fuego was similarly difficult, although two prisoners managed to escape into the surrounding area for a few weeks. The prison population thus became forced colonists and spent much of their time building the town with timber from the forest around the prison. They also built a railway to the settlement, now a tourist attraction known as the End of the World Train (Tren del Fin del Mundo), the southernmost railway in the world.
The prison operated until 1947, when President Juan Perón closed it by executive order in response to the many reports of abuse and unsafe practices. Most of the guards stayed in Ushuaia, while the prisoners were relocated to other jails farther north. After the prison closed, it became a part of the Base Naval Ushuaia, functioning as a storage and office facility until the early 1990s. Later it was converted into the current Museo Maritimo de Ushuaia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ushuaia
Building of the Government of the province in the city of Ushuaia, with typical local architecture.
Ushuaia (Spanish pronunciation: [uˈswaʝa]) is the capital of Tierra del Fuego, Antártida e Islas del Atlántico Sur Province, Argentina. It is commonly regarded as the southernmost city in the world. Ushuaia is located in a wide bay on the southern coast of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, bounded on the north by the Martial mountain range, and on the south by the Beagle Channel. It is the only municipality in the Department of Ushuaia, which has an area of 3,625 square miles. It was founded on October 12, 1884 by Augusto Lasserre and is located on the shores of the Beagle Channel surrounded by the mountain range of the Martial Glacier, in the Bay of Ushuaia. Besides being an administrative center, it is a light industrial port and tourist hub.
End of the World Train
We boarded the southernmost functioning train in the world
for a scenic journey through Tierra del Fuego National Park. At the End of the World Station, we embarked
on antique wagons of the Ferrocarril Austral Fueguino for a steam powered locomotive
trip across the Pipo River and then the Canadon del Toro before entering the
park. Our narrated tour followed the
Pipo River and along the plain while rugged mountains and verdant forests
passed by. We learned about the history
of the park, and how the train, the first to operate inside an Argentine
national park, was originally constructed for use by the prison and built using
prison laborers. We stopped at the
Macarena Waterfalls for an opportunity to take photographs.
The Southern Fuegian Railway (Spanish: Ferrocarril Austral Fueguino (FCAF)) or the Train of the End of the World (Spanish: El Tren del Fin del Mundo) is a 19 3/4 inch gauge steam railway in Tierra del Fuego Province, Argentina. It was originally built as a freight line to serve the prison of Ushuaia, specifically to transport timber. It now operates as a heritage railway into the Tierra del Fuego National Park and is considered the southernmost functioning railway in the world.
In the late 19th century, Ushuaia on Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego developed as a penal colony, with the first prisoners arriving in 1884. In 1902, work began on a proper set of buildings for the prison by inmates, and a railway on wooden rails was constructed to assist the transport of materials, mainly local rock, sand and timber. Oxen pulled wagons along the narrow gauge of less than 3 feet 3/8 inch gauge. In 1909, the prison governor informed the government of the need to upgrade the line and Decauville tracks at a 1 foot 11 7/8 inch narrow gauge were laid in 1909 and 1910 for use with a steam locomotive. They connected the prison camp with the forestry camp and passed along the shoreline in front of the growing town of Ushuaia. It was known as the 'Train of the Prisoners' (Tren de los Presos) and brought wood for heating and cooking as well as building.
The railway was gradually extended further into the forest into more remote areas as wood was exhausted. It followed the valley of the Pipo River into the higher terrain. Constant building allowed expansion of the prison and of the town, with prisoners providing many services and goods.
In 1947 the Prison was closed and replaced with a naval base. Two years later the 1949 Tierra del Fuego earthquake blocked much of the line. Nevertheless, the government made efforts to clear the line and put the train back in service despite the absence of the prisoners. However the service was not viable and closed in 1952.
Rebirth as a tourist railway
In 1994, the railway was rebuilt in 19 3/4 inch track gauge and began services again, although now in luxury relative to its origin as a prison train, with champagne and dinner services. A new 2-6-2T steam locomotive (Camila) was brought from England in 1995 with another made in Argentina and three diesel locomotives also serving on the line. Two Garratts, in Porta's improved version, have also been procured.
Services leave from the 'End of the World' station (about 10 km west of Ushuaia's Airport and immediately west of the Ushuaia Golf Club). The route takes passengers along the Pico Valley in the Toro gorge and to Cascada de la Macarena station where visitors are able to learn about the Yámana people and climb to a viewpoint at a 15-minute stop. The train then enters the national park and the forest, travelling through the valley below the mountains, reaching El Parque station where tourists can return by coach or train.
There is a plan to extend the line to a new station closer to Ushuaia and connect the station to the city with a tram.
Tomorrow we will go on an excursion by boat to view seals and penguins.
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