Monday, November 11, 2019, Salvador de Bahia, Brazil
SALVADOR DE BAHIA,
BRAZIL
Celebrated for its rich Afro-Brazilian heritage, Salvador
de Bahia served as Brazil’s first capital for 200 years. Its Cidade Alta, or Upper City, is a colorful
canvas that evokes a provincial past.
Sugarcane, gold, and diamonds flowed through here from inland farms and
mines en route to Portugal, enriching the gentry and the church of the Upper
City’s Pelourinho district. Nowhere was
the prosperity more on display than in the Largo do Pelourinho, the colonial
square surrounded by pastel hued architectural treasures that inspire local
artists and poets. The square’s
centerpieces are the 17th century Cathedral of Salvador, a
breathtaking blend of neoclassical, baroque, and rococo styles, and the baroque
Church and Convent of Sao Francisco, a complex of two churches and a convent
constructed between 1686 and 1750.
Salvador, also known as São Salvador da Bahia de Todos os Santos (English: Savior; Holy Savior from the Bay of All Saints - with 56 islands) is the capital of the Brazilian state of Bahia. With 2.9 million people (2017), it is the largest city proper in the Northeast Region and the 4th largest city proper in the country, after São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Brasília.
Founded by the Portuguese in 1549 as the first capital of Brazil, Salvador is one of the oldest colonial cities in the Americas. A sharp escarpment divides its Lower Town (Cidade Baixa) from its Upper Town (Cidade Alta) by some 279 feet. The Elevador Lacerda, Brazil's first urban elevator, has connected the two since 1873. The Pelourinho district of the upper town, still home to many examples of Portuguese colonial architecture and historical monuments, was named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985. The city's cathedral is the see of the primate of Brazil and its Carnival celebration has been reckoned as the largest party in the world. Salvador was one of the first slave ports in the Americas and the African influence of the slaves' descendants makes it a center of Afro-Brazilian (negro) culture. The city is noted for its cuisine, music, dance, and architecture. Porto da Barra Beach in Barra has been named one of the best beaches in the world. Itaipava Arena Fonte Nova was the site of the city's games during the 2014 Brazilian World Cup and 2013 Confederations Cup.
Salvador forms the heart of the Recôncavo, Bahia's rich agricultural and industrial maritime district, and continues to be a major Brazilian port. Its metropolitan area, housing 3,899,533 people (2018) forms the wealthiest one in Brazil's Northeast Region (2015).
Upper and lower levels along the water front.
Looking at the bank between the two levels.
Funicular between the two levels.
Older, poverty apartments.
Brazilian naval compound several hundred yards in from the waterfront.
Warehouses along dock; grain elevators in background.
Tender driver's training of cruise ship in front of ours.
Viking crew cleaning aft furniture and swim pool deck.
It's been almost two weeks and six to seven thousand miles since fueling our cruise ship.
Fort of São Diogo across harbor from our docked cruise ship.
Panoramic Salvador de Bahia
We set off by motor coach on a panoramic tour of historic and modern Salvador de Bahia. We started our tour with a drive through colonial-era Salvador for a brief stop in the Praça Municipal, or city square, where our guide explained the history of the city’s historic center, the buildings surrounding the square and the Lacerda Elevator—Brazil’s first and the link between the upper and lower cities. We continued our tour with a shoreline drive to the Barra Lighthouse at the San Antônio fortress. We made a brief stop for photos and information about the lighthouse and the fortress, which was built to protect colonists from Dutch attackers. Then, we passed through the Boca do Rio district and glimpsed at its many famous beaches before heading back to our ship through the modern part of the city. We looked for the colorful orixá sculptures by Bahian artist Tati Moreno at Dique do Tororó.
Mural at one end of bus parking lot.
Elevator between upper and lower levels.
Lower level buildings, quite old, no longer fully occupied.
On our way up the hill to upper level.
Light house on a point between All Saints Bay and Atlantic Ocean.
Farol da Barra Lighthouse built in 1886.
Monument dedicated to the heroes of the battles of Bahia's independence from Portugal in the Campo Grande Square.
Tomé de Sousa (1503–1579) was the first governor-general of the Portuguese colony of Brazil from 1549 until 1553. He was a noble-man and soldier born in Rates, Póvoa de Varzim. Sousa was born a noble and participated in military expeditions in Africa, fought the Moors, and commanded the nau Conceição to Portuguese India, part of the armada of Fernão de Andrade.
Sousa was the agent in charge of restoring the king's authority in Colonial Brazil. Up until this point, Brazil had been neglected by Portugal, which was putting all of its resources into the spice trade in India. There was a decline in the spice trade and increasing threats around Brazil's borders by the surrounding Spanish colonies, which prompted Portugal to intervene. As part of this mission, Sousa had established his capital city of Salvador at Bahia on the Atlantic coast between São Paulo and Pernambuco. The new capital was supposed to bring together the twelve pre-existing settlements, though Sousa traversed the bordering areas in an effort to promote his idea of justice and to diminish what the Portuguese saw as the lawlessness and chaos of the region. He planned on making the colony a strong military base to protect the Portuguese settlers from Indian or other outside forces. He brought 1,000 colonists and soldiers with him on an expedition to Brazil, including four hundred degredados - "men banished from Portugal for some minor criminal activity." Among the colonists were six Jesuits, the first in Brazil, whom he assisted in the Christianization of the natives and helped to reaffirm the King's rule over the colonies. He was successful in decreasing the hostilities waged against the colonists by native people, in part through diplomatic avenues but primarily through his use of cruel and often extreme punishment.
On our way at 6 PM. Next stop, Rio de Janeiro.
Looks like an amazing place to visit. I especially like all the art. Take care.
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