Friday, October 18, 2019, Roseau, Dominica


ROSEAU, DOMINICA

Called the "Nature Isle of the Caribbean," Dominica is celebrated for its mountainous rain forests and rare flora and fauna.  Its compact capital of Roseau boasts a collection of French and English colonial architecture.  The city's Botanical Gardens are rare in the Caribbean for their central urban location and the Roseau River is one of the largest waterways to meander through a capital in the region.  Outside the city, the Caribbean of yesterday unfolds as the island's indigenous Kalinago people retained their rich culture even through centuries of colonialism.  Nine volcanoes bring heat to the island's boiling lakes and sulfur springs.  The island's centerpiece for nature lovers is Morne Trois Pitons National Park, named for its triple-peak mountain.






Roseau is the capital and largest city of Dominica, with a population of 14,725 as of 2011.  It is a small and compact urban settlement, in the Saint George parish and surrounded by the Caribbean Sea, the Roseau River and Morne Bruce.  Built on the site of the ancient Island Carib village of Sairi, it is the oldest and most important urban settlement on the island of Dominica.  It is on the west (leeward) coast of Dominica and has a combination of modern and colonial French architecture.
Roseau is Dominica's most important port for foreign trade. Some exports include bananasbay oil, vegetables, grapefruit, oranges, and cocoa.  The service sector is also a large part of the local economy.  There are several private institutions registered in Dominica, like Ross University, Ballsbridge University, international university for graduate studies, All Saints University, New World University, Western Orthodox University.  There is a prominent diocese called Roman Catholic Diocese of Roseau.



Panoramic Roseau  We discovered vibrant Roseau during a scenic guided tour of this charming Caribbean capital.  We rode through the “City of Verandas,” one of the widespread examples of Creole vernacular architecture found throughout Roseau, while our knowledgeable guide provided lively commentary on the city’s history.  We visited Abilities Unlimited, a local craft workshop that helps the visually impaired learn skills and earn an income by producing baskets and other craft items.  We learned how the center supports its workers and got to know some of their stories.  We made a brief stop at the Botanical Gardens, where our guide pointed out plants of interest such as banyan trees and David the Goliath, a giant African baobab tree toppled by Hurricane David in 1979.  We enjoyed panoramic views of Roseau and the countryside from atop Morne Bruce, then drove past landmark buildings such as Parliament and the State House.


Dominica Botanic Gardens is located on the Caribbean island-nation of Dominica, in the capital of Roseau.  Once known as one of the finest botanical gardens in the region, it was severely damaged by Hurricane David in 1979. Following restoration efforts, it remains a focus of cultural life in Roseau, and a center of conservation research on Dominica.
The Botanic Gardens were established when Dominica was still a colony in the British Empire.  The Crown Government began planning the gardens in 1889, with the goal of encouraging crop diversification and to provide farmers with correctly propagated seedlings.  The 16 hectares of land, formerly a sugar plantation within Bath Estate, was sold to the government in 1891 by its owner, William Davies.
Planting of the gardens began in 1890.  Its first curator was Charles Murray of the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh.  He was soon replaced by Henry F. Green, who planned and laid out the grounds.  Joseph Jones took over its management in 1892, and remained involved throughout his life; Jones would also become the first Superintendent of the Imperial Department of Agriculture for the West Indies in 1898.  Botanists from Kew Gardens in England supplied a variety of tropical species from around the world.  Though its primary purpose remained economic and experimental, Jones introduced ornamental plants to make the grounds attractive.
It became known as among the finest botanical gardens in the West Indies by the 1930s.  The gardens were severely damaged by Hurricane David in 1979, which destroyed many of its impressive old trees.  One of the trees, a gigantic African baobab tree, fell and crushed an empty school bus; the tree and bus remain as a relic of the destruction within the gardens.  Many plants have since been restored.

Jacko parrots:  Live up to 70 years and mate for life.



Bamboo is a grass that grows an inch per day; this "tree" is a collection of 6-8 clumps in a ring. 

 "Inside" ring of bamboo clumps.



The horizontal "trunk" of the tree is 200+ years old.  It lived after Hurricane David blew it over on the brand new bus, moved beside the tree so it would be safer than close to shore.



Banyan, also spelled "banian", is a fig that begins its life as an epiphyte, i.e. a plant that grows on another plant, when its seed germinates in a crack or crevice of a host tree or edifice.  "Banyan" often specifically denominates Ficus benghalensis (the "Indian banyan"), which is the national tree of the Republic of India, though the name has also been generalized to denominate all figs that share a common life cycle and used systematically in taxonomy to denominate the subgenus Urostigma.


Note the small "roots" growing down (upper left).  When each reaches the ground, it "roots" into the ground.



Morne Bruce was named after British royal Engineer, James Bruce, who designed all the fortifications for the island.  Morne Bruce was once the main British garrison for troops defending Dominica.  It was stationed on the summit with step slopes on three sides that provided a natural post for the protection of Roseau.  Most of the buildings are now in ruins but the 18th century barracks are still used as the police-training center and government offices.  The old garrison cemetery still exists at Kingshill but is unkempt.  The only evidence is the rubble stonewall and the royal palms.  The Large Crucifix and Shrine was erected in 1924.  Some of the ramparts are seen at the foot of the cross.



Views from the top.

  
 Cricket field; being set up for annual Independence celebration next week.


 Other Viking tour groups watching parakeets in Botanical Gardens.

City cemetery.




 Our bus, on the way back to town and Abilities Unlimited.




 Catholic all girls school.






 Men's shirt using national madras plaid material.



 Food vendors:  Water melons above, bread below.



 Bridge over river:  Compliments of China!
{New wing of hospital:  Compliments of China!}



Arrival at Abilities Unlimited.
Workshop For The Blind was established by the Government of the Common-wealth of Dominica in 1964 and has operated continuously since then, producing high quality baskets and other craft items while offering an opportunity to persons with challenges/disabilities to gain skills and earn an income.  The Government, through the Ministry of Information, Community Development, Culture and Gender Affairs, continues to oversee its operation and provide a subsidy to keep it going.  The employees depend, however, on sales in order to supplement the small monthly stipend they receive from the Government.





 Totally blind woman weaving a basket.  She is really talented!





 On our way back to cruise ship.  Mangos (40 varieties on Dominica).

  
Entertainers at the dock.

We depart Roseau at 6 PM; will arrive Basseterre, St. Kitts 7 tomorrow morning.





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