Tuesday, April 10, 2018, Muscat, Oman (1 of 2)

Capital of the nation of Oman, Muscat is rich in royal and Islamic treasures and enjoys a stunning setting between the Arabian Sea and the rocky Western Al Hajar Mountains.  A rich and romantic canvas of low whitewashed buildings watched over by traditional dhow fishing boats bobbing in the harbor, the city is also a trove of royal and Islamic treasures.  The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque was named for the beloved leader who has bolstered the country’s economy; it was opened in 2001, a dazzling expanse of white marble, intricate wooden panels, and magnificent stained glass windows.  Remarkably, a 45,000 square-foot carpet, weighing twenty tons, and 46-foot tall chandelier are its centerpieces.  Hints of the country’s past as a Portuguese outpost can be found in Old Muscat.

This blog post begins with an introduction of Arabia, presented to us by one of the current eight guest lecturers on board the Viking Sun.  By the way, we are on our eighth set of guest lectures on this world cruise, three of which are PhDs, one served in the British Royal Force, one an Asian specialist, one an archaeologist, and one an ancient civilization specialist.

A qanāt is a gently sloping underground channel to transport water from an aquifer or water well to surface for irrigation and drinking.  This is an old system of water supply from a deep well with a series of vertical access shafts.  The qanats still create a reliable supply of water for human settlements and irrigation in hot, arid, and semi-arid climates.  The qanat technology was developed in ancient Iran by the Persian people sometime in the early 1st millennium BC, and spread from there slowly westward and eastward.  The Qanats of Gonabad is one of the oldest and largest qanats in the world built between 700 BC to 500 BC, and is still in use today.

He overthrew his father around 1970 because the father was NOT modernizing the country and there was a large constituency courting Communism.  His turn around of Oman was phenomenal.

The Sultan is a musician (organ and a stringed instrument) and composer.  Hence this orchestra and hall.

Frankincense is an aromatic resin used in incense and perfumes, obtained from trees of the genus Boswellia in the family Burseraceae, particularly Boswellia sacra, B. carterii, B. frereana, B. serrata (Indian frankincense), and B. papyrifera.  The English word is derived from Old French "franc encens" (i.e., high quality incense).

There are four main species of Boswellia that produce true frankincense.  Resin from each of the four is available in various grades, which depend on the time of harvesting. The resin is then hand-sorted for quality.

Frankincense is tapped from the scraggy but hardy trees by slashing the bark, which is called striping, and allowing the exuded resin to bleed out and harden.  These hardened resins are called tears.  There are several species and varieties of frankincense trees, each producing a slightly different type of resin.  Differences in soil and climate create even more diversity of the resin, even within the same species.  Boswellia sacra trees are considered unusual for their ability to grow in environments so unforgiving that they sometimes grow out of solid rock.  The initial means of attachment to the rock is unknown, but is accomplished by a bulbous disk-like swelling of the trunk.  This growth prevents it from being ripped from the rock during violent storms.  This feature is slight or absent in trees grown in rocky soil or gravel.  The trees start producing resin when they are about eight to 10 years old.  Tapping is done two to three times a year with the final taps producing the best tears due to their higher aromatic terpene, sesquiterpene, and diterpene content.  Generally speaking, the more opaque resins are the best quality.  Fine resin is produced in Somalia, from which the Roman Catholic Church purchases most of its stock.

Recent studies have indicated that frankincense tree populations are declining, partly due to over-exploitation.  Heavily tapped trees produce seeds that germinate at only 16% while seeds of trees that had not been tapped germinate at more than 80%.  In addition, burning, grazing, and attacks by the longhorn beetle have reduced the tree population.  Conversion (clearing) of frankincense woodlands to agriculture is also a major threat.

Arabian thoroughbred horses came from Oman centuries ago.  Many in the US and Britain have blood lines from today's Oman.

Our shore excursion today began at the major port for Oman.

As we were docking a dhow approached the dock.  These vessels are used for hauling small freight loads and fishing.

Old Portuguese fort on the hillside.

Modern cruise ship terminal.

4x4 "Jeeps" to take some passengers on a Wadi shore excursion.

Guides and bus drivers for today's shore excursions.

Smaller buses for shuttles to and from local markets.

The Sultan's $300 million yacht.  Oman is the first country that the exchange rate for dollars to local currency negative (took more dollars to buy one unit of local currency).

A second yacht but of smaller size and cost.

Round-a-bout.  Note right hand drive (first in quite some time).

Road side park.

The next part of today's shore excursion will be in our subsequent blog post.